By Umber Ghauri
Still processing the commentary I’ve been
reading online about the October 2009 Vogue Paris photoshoot of Lara Stone. In
case you didn’t know she was made to appear black. Was it racist? OH YES and
here’s why:
Why not use a black model?
Many comments focus on the idea that these
images are a positive and beautiful representation of blackness. If so why was
it necessary to use a white model? I feel Vogue’s choice of Lara Stone was
implying that a black model wouldn’t have produced photographs as good as the
white model. THAT’S RACIST GUYS. Also let’s consider the fact that only white
models were used in that issue, and many other issues of Vogue. This means
white models are getting paid to be black and black models are getting squat
for being black.
It’s racist to paint white people black.
It just is. Many commentators wrote that
this is a double standard. I think its pretty damn racist to make black models
appear white too. So, no, its not. Also EDUCATE YOURSELF on the history of
blackface.
This photoshoot doesn’t exist in a
vacuum
The mainstream fashion industry, especially
Vogue, does racist things all the bloody time. There was the lovely photoshoot
with Anja Rubik in Vogue Italia 2009 where the token black woman was her maid.
There’s that fact that Prada didn’t use a single black runway model between
1997 and 2008. There’s Manolo Blahnik refusing to have Vibe photograph his shoes until black supermodel Iman called him
personally. Less than 1% of Vogue covers have featured a non-white person. In
1999 top executives from Elle model management were filmed saying Africa would
be a better place if it was full of white people and that a black or ‘Oriental’
model would never work on a Milan runway. They represented Naomi Campbell at
the time. Karl Lagerfeld photographed Claudia Schiffer in blackface AND
yellowface in 2010. Jean-Paul
Guerlain said in 2010 that he worked ‘harder than a n****r’ to make his
perfumes. Victoria’s secret recently launched a lingerie line called ‘Go East’
featuring white models in eroticised ‘ethnic’ costume. Even when sexualizing exoticness,
black and minority ethnic women aren’t palatable enough so they dress up white
models to look a bit like them. Victoria’s Secret messed up in 2010 too when
they did a ‘Wild’ segment in which they put all 8 of their non-white models
(out of 34 models) in ‘tribal’-looking body paint surrounded by black men
painted in a similar manner. The same show’s country barn segment featured one
non white model. They also stuck a Native American headdress on Karlie Kloss,
offending tons of Native Americans who consider the headdress to be a symbol of
honour and spirituality, not titillation. A third of Native American women are
raped in their lifetime. 85% of those women are raped by a non-native. We can
thank Victoria’s Secret for adding to a culture which objectifies and
eroticises those women. BUT I DIGRESS.
I really could keep going for a long long
time.
ARE WE CONVINCED ITS RACIST YET?
Sources:
http://www.complex.com/style/2012/09/a-history-of-racism-in-fashion/
http://i.huffpost.com/gen/853334/thumbs/o-KARLIE-KLOSS-570.jpg?5
http://cdn.trendhunterstatic.com/thumbs/racist-editorials-vogue-italia-stereotypes-a-black-woman-as-a-maid.jpeg
http://colorlines.com/archives/2010/12/victoria_secrets_fashion_show_saves_all_the_dark_skinned_models_for_wild_things_segment.html
http://i.imgur.com/SUZqa.jpg
http://www.foxnews.com/us/2012/11/13/victoria-secret-apologizes-after-use-native-american-headdress-in-fashion-show/
http://www.racialicious.com/2012/09/06/victorias-secret-does-it-again-when-racism-meets-fashion/
http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/racist-editorials-vogue-italia-stereotypes-a-black-woman-as-a-maid
http://stylefrizz.com/200909/lara-stones-black-vogue-paris-october-2009/
Just want to clarify one thread of your argument here...
ReplyDeleteIs your argument that it is racist for one race or culture to dress in the clothing or style of another? (I am aware that you've made other separate points, with which I agree)
Ie. Do you consider it racist for white models to wear asian style dress or cheetah skin etc, or for a chinese woman to dress as a a geisha - whether or not asian/black/japanese models are also used as part of the same campaign?
thanks for your question, obviously I am not speaking for every person of colour with this response or the article itself but in my opinion I think cultural appropriation is not always racist but the cases described above are. If you go to India, for example, and some locals give you a sari and then you wear it, that isn't racist. If you dress up in, say, Native American headdress and go out clubbing or to a fancy dress party in London or somewhere similar, that probably is racist. I think your examples are problematic, like a Chinese woman dressed as a geisha, because I'm not Chinese or Japanese and am embarrassingly ignorant about those cultures I can't address that with specificity but I would say it encourages an Orientalist gaze whereby those cultures and races are homogenised, fetishised and dehumanised. Also, a white woman wearing cheetah print or an asian style dress probably isn't racist but it depends on whether you are dressing up in a kind of costume or whether you are dressing as yourself, which i think each person will know for themselves.
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